Fishing in Ireland – An Amateur’s Guide

M

Member Article

Guest
by Andy Scholey

In the mid-1960s, when I was a young lad and had just started fishing, I was always struck by the astonishing front-page photographs in the Angling Times showing huge bags of bream hauled out of Irish loughs. They would appear in the middle of the old English close season when there wasn’t any coarse fishing permitted. The pictures were always the same; there would be three or four heavily dressed anglers, in oilskins, posing behind a veritable mountain of slimy Irish bream. As an impressionable teenager, it looked fantastic; it seemed like a dream destination; it must be so easy; I wanted to visit Ireland and share this experience.



My first visit was in May 1980 when I went with my wife, Sue, and my best fishing-mate Chris. It wasn’t an all-out fishing trip; we were just hoping to fit in two or three days in between sightseeing and so we were not prepared. With two pints of maggots each, a few stick floats, and ¾ oz Arlesey bombs, we were massively under-gunned for what greeted us. Irish loughs are huge, often several hundred acres, mostly shallow, rocky, reed-lined margins and almost featureless. In the days before Octoplus fishing stations, ground bait feeders, or tackle capable of a 40- or 50-yard chuck they seemed to me – brought up on Yorkshire rivers – virtually unfishable. Chris tackled up one morning and caught a couple of skimmers in three feet of water 40 yards out, but the rocky bank and strong breeze were enough to put him off. The fishing was a disaster apart from the last day when we visited the River Blackwater at Cappoquin, opposite the famous Bacon Factory, and caught dace, roach, and trout on the stick float; I had a bit of a surprise when the flow changed and backed up about ten feet; it was tidal!

The first thing we noticed in rural Ireland were the shops. They all seemed to be dual or triple purpose, complete with a lounge bar attached! So, in the high street, you’d get Murphy’s Greengrocers, Undertakers and Lounge Bar! Or O’Dowd’s Hairdressers, Butchers and Lounge Bar! It was extraordinary. Every village and town we visited was the same. The roads were equally surprising; signs were absent or misleading; the vehicles were old, dented or badly scratched and the standard of driving was, let’s say – relaxed. On one occasion we followed a donkey and cart with two milk churns for a couple of miles. The driver, a little old fella of about eighty, was fast asleep and the donkey clearly knew the way to the creamery!

Since then, I’ve been to Ireland about fifteen or sixteen times, mainly Co. Cavan, Co. Leitrim, and L. Inniscarra. I think I’ve gained a little experience about the conditions there and I thought I’d share some of my thoughts here:

Planning: this is all part of the fun. Several evenings spent discussing venues, tactics, baits etcetera. For a small party of two, for six days fishing, they would usually result in a pre-order of two 20kg sacks of white crumb and one of brown, two gallons of maggots, a gallon of casters and a few packs of worms. As the cost mounted there would be pleas of “this looks a bit much” or” do we really need all this?” to be answered with a good-natured “If we land on the bream, they’ll soon polish this lot off”: we never did!

The waters: Irish fishing is hard; I mean really hard. As I’ve mentioned, the loughs are often huge; the water’s edge is stony, almost impossible to get a rod-rest in, nor an umbrella; you struggle to get a level spot to fish. Apart from the famous bits, like the hot water stretch of Lanesborough, the waters fall into two main categories, huge loughs, several hundred acres each, and small, boggy lakes, with occasional worn-out platforms, usually holding rudd and tench.

There are rivers and canals; I’ve never fished the canals, they looked mighty shallow and weedy whenever we stopped for a look. There’s the Shannon which is good if you don’t mind either a forty-yard chuck or fishing in 16-20 feet of water; and there’s the Blackwater which is great, mainly because it resembles the Yorkshire rivers I was brought up on.

Access to banks is the key; it’s not uncommon when the water levels are high (which is most of the time) to have a six-hundred-acre lough with only three or four swims available. When the wind picks up from the usual ‘strong breeze’ to ‘moderate gale’, the things can get tricky. In my experience the wind is always in your face. I’ve suffered it for a few hours then moved to the opposite bank only to find still in my face!!

The Climate Let’s get one thing straight, it rains a lot in Ireland, and it is nearly always windy. This is demonstrated by one of my favourite photos; 40-yard chuck into a stiff breeze; heavy rain; huge bow in the line; a lusty bite, on the tip and the sidewinder, from a willing Irish roach.



The Experience You often see groups of anglers in hired minibuses; they’re invariably made up of two or three old chaps; two or three teenagers and a couple of middle-aged blokes. The old chaps are always asleep by their rods. The teenagers – if they ever actually wake up after the night before – are also asleep and usually haven’t managed to get their rods out. Then there is usually one good angler bagging-up.

The Crossing: The ferries have improved since my first visit when it was an overnight ferry with livestock on board that took over three hours. Now you can get a SeaCat catamaran that takes just over an hour and a half, just enough time for a burger and a couple of pints of Guinness.

The last time I used the ferry from Holyhead, the midday crossing was cancelled due to high winds in the Irish Sea. As the winds died a little about 6.00pm, the Captain decided that he’d give it a go; we boarded a ferry that sailed south, down the coast of Wales, and then swung around heading North West from Aberystwyth straight into Dublin with the wind behind us all the way. It was still pretty rough. We arrived at the accommodation ten hours late, at about 1.30 in the morning with the farmer’s wife asking whether we wanted any ham sandwiches or a drink or anything, I think they’d just got back from the pub.



The Stories

Seeking directions one night in the pub in Arva, a helpful Irish guy said go down the road and take the second turning on the right, so, we did and got lost. The next night we asked the guy the directions again and he said take the second road on the right. I said,

“But the second road has a no-entry sign on it; it’s a one-way street!”

“Dats de one!”,
and he was right, we took it the next day and nobody blinked an eye!

Fishing the giant reservoir, L. Inniscarra, we caught trout on the waggler, spraying maggots in the Dripsy Arm, we brought home half a dozen for the B&B proprietor who was so grateful that evening he got out the Poteen!!!

In Killishandra one morning I visited the shop across the street for some chocolate amazed to see the traffic held up by people parking three abreast outside McCarthy’s Newsagents, Hardware supplies and Lounge Bar, holding up the busy morning traffic whilst someone gets out for a paper – and nobody seems to mind!

We’ve stayed in Ballinamore a few times, it had a population of 1760 people and has 26 bars. I live in a village in Norfolk with a few more people and we struggle to keep one pub going.

I could go on…

I’ve lost touch a bit, I haven’t been for about 10 years; anyone one else got great memories of Ireland fishing?

Andy Scholey May 2021

The post Fishing in Ireland – An Amateur’s Guide first appeared on FishingMagic Magazine.

Continue reading...
 

steve2

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2010
Messages
4,657
Reaction score
1,790
Location
Worcestershire
Reminds me very much of my trips to Ireland, we always based our in Strokestown, had some great fishing holidays. The only place I knew of where you could buy fishing tackle, food and have a pint in the same shop what ever time of day or night.
Great days, I would love to go back to those days but you can't, but I will keep those memories of those times and friends made.
 

Skoda

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
418
Reaction score
1,007
Location
Cambs
I would love to go back Steve, there's so much unexplored water. I wrote the article with the fondest memories of the friends I went with; sadly age has crept up on us and probably don't have the energy to go again. Might just fit one more trip...?

Andy
 

ian g

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
1,577
Reaction score
1,507
Location
North Shropshire
i only went once , stayed in Mohill Co Leitrim and loved every minute . I just didn't know any other anglers willing to go back . I'd love to give it another go
 

nottskev

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
5,904
Reaction score
7,914
My mum was from Dublin, dad from Roscommon. Childhood holidays were always in Ireland, and I can remember standing on the quayside and watching the family car being lifted onto the boat with a crane. I didn't go there fishing until the mid 80's, but through the 90's I went several times a year and I've stayed and fished in Waterford, Clare, Limerick, Galway, Kilkenny, Cavan, Leitrim. Longford, and Fermanagh in the North.

The first trip was disastrous. Two of us plus gear, bait and luggage in my mate's girlfriend's two door hatchback. She complained it never smelled right again, and flies appeared for a good while after. We made all the first-timer's mistakes, and more: we picked the wrong area thanks to a dodgy short-lived angling holiday company - water everywhere, but inaccessible with miles of bank with boggy marsh, rocks, forest or scrub, rivers that fill up with roach in spring, but none at home in August. We had canal angler's gear; I don't think we had line over 2.6lb or floats bigger than 2AAA. I'd say we caught 30lb of small fish between us all week. We came home knackered, smelly and damp but with our eyes opened.

The next year, we got on the right path thanks to meeting a chap called Hugh Gough, Angling Officer for the Inland Fisheries Trust at one of the Irish Angling Roadshows, held in big cities like Manchester, that were a feature of the time, where a couple of dozen owners of guest houses or self-catering would come over and set up stall with leaflets, displays and so on. He pointed us to some Cavan lakeland areas, and we did our homework, got appropriate gear, went back and enjoyed the kind of catches featured in the angling press. A few years later, he published an invaluable book Coarse Fishing in Ireland, with details - maps, access, swims, depths, species - on hundreds of lakes and river stretches which was an inspiration and a guide for all my future trips. Imagine what a difference it makes to have 200 pages of this quality of information

ire 5.jpg



Fishing in Ireland turned the challenges of fishing here upside down. Here, we're most often on well-fished, well-trodden relatively small waters, often with a path around the edge and well-worn pegs all the way round. Some us of can say exactly what was caught lately from which peg, and many waters have comfortable platforms all round. In some waters, the big fish have names. The difficulty is tempting pressured fish which have seen it all. Mind you, commercials have lowered the barrier to good catches. In Ireland, more so 20-30 years back, few Irish blokes fished, vast areas of water were practically virgin (although the Irish Tourist Board, recognising the value to the economy, put up walkways and platforms on many of the more popular waters) and the challenges were finding accessible places, locating the fish you were after, feeding them to attract and hold them in your swim and using gear to beat the weather/ size of the water and to let you fish an attacking style to deal with big catches. Believe it or not, Irish bream test your tackle and the roach/bream hybrids are something else.

Lots of blokes would go fishing in Ireland in groups for the social side, the knock-up matches and the evening entertainment, and good luck to them. I stayed in a few centres like that, and it was always nice to have a bit of company if you felt like it. But I'd more often choose somewhere off the beaten track (not hard; that's a small track over there). Nowadays, we've all got phones with us, with means to summon help and give our location in an emergency. I wonder, looking back, how I did it, fishing on my own in some of the most lonely and empty spots you can imagine.

Maps are beautiful things, and I'd get the Ordnance Survey map for any area I planned to visit, cut out the relevant section and cover it in plastic. A paper map on an Irish fishing holiday is asking for trouble. I can't find the Cavan map, which is literally more water than land, but this bit of the Leitrim map, the top end of the Shannon system, gives you an idea of the amount of water waiting to be fished

ire.jpg


Fishing in Ireland came with a great sense of freedom. The attitude to land and access was so different. I fished wherever I wanted. Nobody ever asked me what I was doing or told me I was on private property. Now and then I'd approach someone or even knock on a door to ask if I could go down to the river or lake here. Go ahead, or as they say, Work away, was invariably the answer. Most often, you couldn't find anybody to ask even if you wanted to.

It was an adventurous business. I always found when I came back I didn't want to go fishing for a couple of weeks. After the open horizons, the beautiful almost unfished waters, the unspoilt banks, all my usual fisheries seemed sadly cramped, stale and over-used. It doesn't take much to make me wonder whether I might go over again. I'm definitely not up for the more strenuous side of it, but there might be some location that would give me the spirit of it without all the hard work.
 

Mark Wintle

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2002
Messages
4,480
Reaction score
842
Location
Azide the Stour
I went three times with mates back in 1978-80. First year at Cappoquin which was poor then but trips to the Plassey at Limerick produced wonderfuil bream fishing and a small pond produced some nice tench at dawn, the following year we stayed on a farm in Co. Clare, caught well on the Shannon and had tremendous bags of dace and roach at Mallow, and the final year stayed at Mallow which wasn't that good due to low water so decamped to O'Briens Bridge and had plenty of bream on the Plassey again.
 

Skoda

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
418
Reaction score
1,007
Location
Cambs
Wow Kev! You met Hugh Gough, fantastic. Bought the book on Ebay for £40 ages ago; you can buy it for £4 now; a reflection of how few anglers go nowadays I think? Completely agree with the sense of freedom experienced although we were warned about which pubs to avoid, and, in the early days, always a bit worried about the 'troubles'. We found a cracking water that only had roach and pike in which I particularly enjoyed, caught my PB roach of 1lb 10oz there. The next time I went there were four ex-pat English chaps fishing which spoils things a bit
My fishing buddy, Chris, is a bit disabled now so the last few times we went to a place in Co Cavan that has a decent track down to the lakeside, fishing into deep water relatively close in. Only downside is that it's fished quite regularly so, maybe not so attractive but scores in the convenience stakes.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Andy
 

nottskev

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
5,904
Reaction score
7,914
Wow Kev! You met Hugh Gough, fantastic. Bought the book on Ebay for £40 ages ago; you can buy it for £4 now; a reflection of how few anglers go nowadays I think? Completely agree with the sense of freedom experienced although we were warned about which pubs to avoid, and, in the early days, always a bit worried about the 'troubles'. We found a cracking water that only had roach and pike in which I particularly enjoyed, caught my PB roach of 1lb 10oz there. The next time I went there were four ex-pat English chaps fishing which spoils things a bit
My fishing buddy, Chris, is a bit disabled now so the last few times we went to a place in Co Cavan that has a decent track down to the lakeside, fishing into deep water relatively close in. Only downside is that it's fished quite regularly so, maybe not so attractive but scores in the convenience stakes.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Andy

I think I'd be going for you and your mate's option these days! A bit of careful research might let me swerve the more physical side! I wonder how different I'd find things. Ireland, like everywhere, will have changed, and there is plainly more of a coarse/match fishing scene these days. But a country blessed with so much water will still be a million miles from one where, so we're told on here, clubs are organising rotas to control fishing pressure on a southern river. I never met anything other than hospitality, but you could come across reminders of tension. One year I went to Ballinamore at Easter, only to find the local waters all still at winter levels and dour, so to save the holiday I drove up to Carrybridge on the Erne near Enniskillen every day. Having your car checked over by unsmiling soldiers at the border, who still wanted a straight answer to What's the reason for your journey ? when your car is full of fishing gear, reminds you of things you weren't thinking about. There must be so many places looking absolutely gorgeous over there in May and June. It gets more appealing the more our good fishing dwindles to little artificial ponds.
 

ian g

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
1,577
Reaction score
1,507
Location
North Shropshire
I remember a few things about our trip , I went with a guy from work who was mainly a sea fisherman . We went to one of the roadshows set up by the tour operator . We met our host there and stayed in a big house in Mohill and mainly fished loch Rinn . I remember the awful roads withe the signs ROAR , repair our awful roads , think the EU sorted them . We used to drink in the local and I remember a guy asking if we weren't worried about the eejits . The local IRA . Must admit I hadn't thought about it to much , until then . I've been back a few times but never fished again , it was ace , we had some good catches of bream and had a great day on the Shannon , good those hybrids don't alf pull back
 

Colin Brett

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2003
Messages
1,350
Reaction score
12
Location
Cambridge UK
Interesting as that is more or less the Irish holidays I've eperienced over the last 50 odd years. Our first trip was back in 1979 and was to Mountshannon in Co Clare. The local shop didn't open until 11am or later and closed in November so they said. The milk arrived mid afternoon and you needed to order the day before. The bungalow we rented was huge with 4 bedrooms and about 50 yards from L Derg. The fridge and pantry [who remembers them?] were both full of produce and included in the rent, top up was included as well. We thought it was heaven. The fishing wasn't the best, Grafham was so much better. Anyway we had a great time.
I returned in 1986 to be the star angler in a Pike fishing film, it was in Cavan that I first met Hugh Gough as he was the angling guide and advisor. Had a great time with Hugh and the film crew so good infact I was invited back again in 1987. Met up with Hugh again and this time we fished in Galway and across the border in Mayo. Hugh and I became good friends and traded many phone calls over the years and met up when he was over in the UK with tourist board travel shows. It was at one of these shows I first met Peter O'Reilly, another really nice man, I gleaned loads of info from him ref. salmon and trout fishing in the West.
I was sad and surprised to hear Hugh had died as I hadn't heard he was even ill. He was a great loss to the coarse angling scene in Ireland.
I bumped into Peter O'Rielly at the angling shows as well, but I was in a bar in Leenane Co Galway [1989] when Jack Charlton came strolling in with Peter. After all the cheering died down JC came and sat with us and the 2 guys I had shared a beat with on the Erriff that day, I made my excuses [not a football fan] and sidelined Peter to get the info on fishing the Erriff. I did go back and have a chat with JC who happily chatting to my wife about he would rather watch paint dry that watch cycling [Le Tour was on at the time] A mine of info I often saw Peter in the West while he was giving lessons in the Aasleigh Lodge. I even managed to get him over to give talks at Grafham and Rutland. Sad to lose him as well.
Luckily I have a signed copy of Hugh's book and also several of Peter's. I consider myself a very lucky man to have known both of them.

As an aside the Film series I was involved with was filmed by David Shaw Smith and called the Angling Experience. Copies are availble from https://hands.ie/other-titles/ David Shaw Smith was an aclaimed film maker who left an archive of film about Ireland's Traditional Crafts. David sadly passed away from Covid in January this year.
 

Skoda

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
418
Reaction score
1,007
Location
Cambs
Thanks for all your comments, Guys; sounds like we all had very similar experiences of fishing in the Emerald Isle, particularly Colin - Hugh Gough and Jack Charlton. I've been a Leeds fan (grew up half a mile from Elland Road) since I was 10 years old, great centre-half. I once saw Bob Nudd in Killishandra although not to talk to.
Apart from the festivals, I don't think many anglers go fishing to Ireland these days which is a great shame as there must be countless waters that have never been fished I suppose that nobody has the time, these days, to go exploring.
Andy
 

Skoda

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
418
Reaction score
1,007
Location
Cambs
Thanks for those Colin, they're actually quite sharp. Yeah, I remember the heavyweight waxed cotton waterproofs, still got mine somewhere, I wear them when I'm pruning the roses!

The memories flood back, must plan a trip back there when the pandemic is history.

Thanks again

Andy
 
Top