Line enbedment - fixed spool reels

chubber1

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first of all when loading the reel with new line i find the best way is to have some one holding the spool with a pencil or pen through the middle of the spool then they can use their thumbs to add abit of tension to the line but before winding on to the reel make sure the line comes off the bottom of the spool NOT THE TOP.if it comes off the bottom you will get perfect line lay and it dosent matter if its 2lb line or 12lb line it must come off the bottom..if it comes off the top as your winding it on to the reel you will see the line twisting which will lead to line coiling off the spool as you cast. wether your float or feeder fishing ..i load all my reels this way and never have any problems.try it you will see

---------- Post added at 02:12 ---------- Previous post was at 02:06 ----------

also i forgot to add itdosent matter the make of reel i use shimanos drennans okumas ets all loaded the same way and have no problems
 

Ray Daywalker Clarke

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Note to anyone cleaning their reels etc etc.

DO NOT USE WD40. Many think this product is the be all and end all, it isn't.

WD40 can after time do harm to metal's etc etc. as many working parts of reel are delicate to a point, WD 40 will clean them ok, but, will also cause metals harm.

If you do use WD40, then make sure you clean it off completely, white spirit will help with the cleaning of WD40.
 

barbelboi

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Yep, the WD initials (water displacement) reveals it’s use as a rust preventative and degreaser – Apparently it took the Rocket Chemical Company 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula sorted back in 1953.................:)
 

maggot_dangler

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Yep, the WD initials (water displacement) reveals it’s use as a rust preventative and degreaser – Apparently it took the Rocket Chemical Company 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula sorted back in 1953.................:)

Derrived from Tuna fish so i hear goes sticky and orrible gums locks up a treat probably clean about 10 to 12 a week that have secumbed to the WD40 curse ..

PG
 

sam vimes

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Derrived from Tuna fish so i hear

Urban myth, according to the manufacturer.

One of the worst lubricants you can possibly use on a reel is bog standard silicone oil. It causes [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling"]Galling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame], especially in metals of differing types, just as you often find in reel gearing. I've known of a few air rifles, PCP and spring, that have been ruined by silicone oil. Most good gunsmiths and manufacturers are aware of the issues.
 
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nicepix

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I was aware of the fallacy about WD40 containing tuna oil and therefore explaining its attraction to fish. But the silicone oil one is a new one to me. I only used lubricants specifically for air rifles on my Prosport and HW100, but I have been using a silicone spray lubricant on some of my reels recently. It is aimed at cyclists and may or may not be harmful. Thanks to your info' I now know to have a close look at the small print.
Thanks.
 

sam vimes

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I was aware of the fallacy about WD40 containing tuna oil and therefore explaining its attraction to fish. But the silicone oil one is a new one to me. I only used lubricants specifically for air rifles on my Prosport and HW100, but I have been using a silicone spray lubricant on some of my reels recently. It is aimed at cyclists and may or may not be harmful. Thanks to your info' I now know to have a close look at the small print.
Thanks.

Silicone oil is usually fine as a protector against corrosion, but can be a nightmare on metal to metal contact parts. Do a search for galling+airgun and you are likely to find a few references to dire warnings from Ben Taylor (one half of the original Theoben team. Sometimes known as Bengarzy on the forums). There was also a time that Air Arms had a very specific warning in their manuals concerning the (mis)use of silicone oils. I suspect that half the problem will be that quite a few different concoctions will all go under the generic term of silicone oil. I err on the side of caution and avoid all silicone oil like the plague.
 

nicepix

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I used a special grease on the spring and piston on my Prosport to keep things smooth and quiet.

The silicone cycle spray I got worked a treat on the front drag of a reel I found a bit 'sticky'. I can't see it hurting that but I'll certainly have a closer look at the small print before I put it inside the Arero baitrunner. I usually use clipper oil on that sort of thing.
 

maggot_dangler

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Urban myth, according to the manufacturer.

One of the worst lubricants you can possibly use on a reel is bog standard silicone oil. It causes Galling - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, especially in metals of differing types, just as you often find in reel gearing. I've known of a few air rifles, PCP and spring, that have been ruined by silicone oil. Most good gunsmiths and manufacturers are aware of the issues.

Yes have seen the bit they claim it a a myth not what we have been told in the lock trade it causes dang nightmares , I still believe it is fish based , could be wrong but will take some proving ..
PTFE is one of the main lubricants i use on most things now .

pg
 
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binka

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PTFE is one of the main lubricants i use on most things now .

That brings back memories, I recall reading an article in the early to mid eighties when PTFE, with its low friction surface in its solid form, first became popular for pole bushes.

I'm sure it was a London shop which first started selling 'em, Dorking area?
 

Titus

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Just to update....
I have now done what Titus and others have suggested prior to my sessions on Friday and yesterday although I used the Spin Doctor as I don't want to put 'twist' into the spool.

In fact a question for you Titus....If you do as you say with the 4oz weight, surely as you wind the line back onto the spool (with a non revolving weight on the end) surely you would be adding 'twist' with each turn of the reel handle ?? Or have I got it wrong...

I'm not 100% sure about this one but my gut tells me that if the line is released off an open spool and then wound back on with the bail arm closed any twist generated by releasing the line is canceled out by winding it back one, However, it's a bit late in the evening for me to contemplate that one.

Also, if the swivel does its job properly it should release any built up twist though I'm always a little dubious about whether swivels do anything other than provide a handy method of joining one piece of line to another one.

One thing I do know though is that baitrunners are one of the worst culprits for introducing twist into your line and if you can manage to do the fence post thing to the first 50 or 60 yards every couple of sessions it will sort it out for you.
 
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