which pellet waggler rod

[cormorant]

im after a pellet wag rod any ideas ta

 

[peter crabtree]

garblino rocket £25 for a good 10ft rod. I've had mine 3 years and it's Ok.

 

[cormorant]

thanks peter, any one else? i hear the mach 3 is very good

 

[Lord Paul of Sheffield]

TFG compact all rounder 8- 10ft

 

[S-Kippy]

thanks peter, any one else? i hear the mach 3 is very good

It is too...lovely rod.Delicate,light,well balanced and excellent value. Bit more finesse than my other 11 footer which is a Drennan. I prefer the Mach 3 and I use it for all sorts of things.

 

[cormorant]

thanks keep em coming

 

[jimmy crackedcorn]

thanks keep em coming

Garbolino pellet combo, 12ft pellet waggler with a separate quiver section. £50 from eBay. Happy with mine.

 

[freebird7]

i would really recommend the Middy "Baggin machine" 13-14ft waggler. its a great rod and has served me well, even as a make shift feeder rod at times.

 

[sagalout]

Maver powerlite 11ft match, circa £80, so light you have to hold onto it until the reel is on the road or it floats away . I have had carp to 16.5lb and tench to 6lb on mine.

 

[cormorant]

thanks to all who replied went for the mach3 in the end, what reel line and hooklength bs should i be using for carp in the 5 to 20 lb range, i watched 2 blokes take the local commercial apart last week on the pellet wag and they were catching some real lumps, couldnt talk to them as they were in a match there rods were bent into hoops!

 

[sagalout]

what reel line and hooklength bs

I think our local matchmen use 4lb main and 0.15 (5-6lb'ish depending on make) hooklink. I am "monkey see monkey do" and have slavishly copied with brilliant success.

Some more tips would be, buy the preloaded wagglers and fix the depth with drennan "grippa stops" (less chance of tangles, and no line damage from shot).

Do not use float silicone attachment thingies, the line cuts through them when you cock up the cast with a 5 gram waggler on.

Feather the cast in.

Don't go to mad on distance to start, try and get some accuracy with the catapult and pellet.

 

[sam vimes]

I think our local matchmen use 4lb main and 0.15 (5-6lb'ish depending on make) hooklink.

Are you sure about that? I know that the carpers amongst us have use stronger hooklinks than mainlines for many years but I've only rarely known a matchman use stronger hooklinks than mainline.

 

[cormorant]

I think our local matchmen use 4lb main and 0.15 (5-6lb'ish depending on make) hooklink. I am "monkey see monkey do" and have slavishly copied with brilliant success.

Some more tips would be, buy the preloaded wagglers and fix the depth with drennan "grippa stops" (less chance of tangles, and no line damage from shot).

Do not use float silicone attachment thingies, the line cuts through them when you cock up the cast with a 5 gram waggler on.

Feather the cast in.

Don't go to mad on distance to start, try and get some accuracy with the catapult and pellet.

thanks for the info

 

[sagalout]

Are you sure about that?

Yeah'ish , because the pellet waggler rods are soft (basically I think they are a match rod with backbone and a short handle) and the technique is casting a float they use a low breaking strain mainline (mono) and a high tech (copolymer) hook link.

There has been couple of threads lately discussing hook links and reel line. Basically my understanding is reel line is stronger than stated and the hook link is correct or understated.

PS The local match men use heavier hook links than main lines when fishing the method.

 

[sam vimes]

PS The local match men use heavier hook links than main lines when fishing the method.

I have heard of that but not of fishing heavier hooklinks than mainline when float fishing. Doesn't make much sense to me, sounds like a good way to leave a fish dragging a float around if things go wrong.

 

[S-Kippy]

Depends on the line and diameter of both the mainline & hooklink. I often eg use a mainline with a thinner diameter [but higher bs] hooklink. Without putting a micrometer [?] on it and allowing for all the wild claims about diameter/bs I can visibly see that my standard feeder line [6lb bs Pro Gold] is much thicker than the 8lb bs Hi-Tec hooklink that I typically team it with.

Diameter is what matters...not the bs. I'm talking here of your "standard" hooklink not eg a coated braid.

 

[sam vimes]

Depends on the line and diameter of both the mainline & hooklink. I often eg use a mainline with a thinner diameter [but higher bs] hooklink. Without putting a micrometer [?] on it and allowing for all the wild claims about diameter/bs I can visibly see that my standard feeder line [6lb bs Pro Gold] is much thicker than the 8lb bs Hi-Tec hooklink that I typically team it with.

Diameter is what matters...not the bs. I'm talking here of your "standard" hooklink not eg a coated braid.

I can understand the logic based on good presentation but if the lines break at the stated breaking strain then it's asking for trouble. Sorry, while I understand why line diameter is important I'll always struggle to understand fishing a hooklink stronger than a mainline. The exceptions may be truly safe rigs where there's no chance of a fish ending up dragging a lead, feeder or float around after a mainline breakage.

 

[S-Kippy]

I think thinner is the point. I struggled with diameters v bs for a while but I've got my head round it now and once you start thinking in diameter terms rather than bs it makes more sense.That's why its done and the fact that the hooklink happens to [allegedly] be stronger is potentially a big bonus.In general fishing terms there is little point in fishing a heavier [same diameter or thicker] hooklink than mainline....other than for very specific reasons or in very specific circumstances ie coated braids,rocks etc possibly.

I use a mainline that I trust implicitly and "hi-tec" hooklink materials that offer better presentation and a bit of a safety margin in bs terms. I dont like [trust] the very low diameter stuff but anything from about 0.15 upwards I'm pretty happy with.When you consider 0.20 standard mono is about 4lb bs whereas a 0.20 "hi-tec" is going to be possibly double that you can see the potential advantage. Even if the bs is overstated you are still going to have a considerably higher bs from a thinner diameter line.....provided you can find one that you trust.

I've tried a few and they vary IMO from the very good to the truly shocking....but then so does mono. Personally I wouldn't have any line by Berkeley in my house let alone my box yet other people happily use it. Lines are very personal things...took me a long time to settle on the ones I like and that perform in every situation I'm likely to encounter but I did get there in the end....at least I think I have !

 

[sam vimes]

That's rather the point I was making. I appreciate that lines often don't break at the stated breaking strain. I appreciate that a standard mono is liable to have a greater diameter than a high tech line of greater B/S. However, if you base everything on diameter and happen to end up with a hooklink that breaks at a higher level than your mainline then it's a recipe for problems. If you take it to a stupid degree then you would end up fishing braid hooklinks of 10lb test that are the same diameter as 2lb mono. Fish four or even six pound mono as a main line and you still get the presentational advantage but there's virtually no chance of your hooklink breaking before your mainline. I still maintain that hooklinks of greater (real world) breaking strain than your hooklink is not for me. Too great a risk of tethered fish for me. How do you get round this potential problem or is it simply that the high tech mono breaks at less than the stated test and the mainline breaks above the stated test? Perhaps it's just old fashioned thinking that a hooklink should always (or as near as always as possible) break before your mainline.

 

[sagalout]

Sam, your point about using high bs braid is knocked on the head by the fact that a well balanced rig should always be used.

I think there are two factors to consider.

1/ The main line will have a higher than stated breaking strain, possibly it is quoted as knot strength, and being a much larger diameter it will be much tougher.

2/ The line (either hook link or main) will break when the stretch (elasticity) has reached a point where the strain on the line is as high as the breaking strain of the weakest point. Because the hook link is much shorter than the main line it reaches the end of its elasticity first.

I don't know how well I have grasped the facts or how well I have put them across, but I know (through recent experience) that if I use shortish high tec copolymer hook links I need to use higher breaking strain than main line. For example an 8lb main (.026) and a 9lb or 10lb hook link (.21 copolymer or .1 braid), a 5lb main (.21) and a 6lb 12oz hook link (.17).