which pellet waggler rod

[sam vimes]

Sagalout,
as I've already said, I understand about balanced tackle and I understand the concept of improved presentation basing rigs on line diameter. I still don't get the concept of basing a rig on diameters alone. How do you go about ensuring that a hooklink breaks before your mainline when using hooklinks of greater stated test than the mainline? As yet it seems that it's based on assumptions that high tech links break before mono of greater diameter but lesser breaking strain. I'll accept that this may often work out but what happens when it doesn't? The braid example I used was exaggerated for effect but still works as far as choosing line purely on the basis of diameter. I did say that it was taking it to a stupid extreme. What happens when the inexperienced grab hold of the idea of using line greater breaking strain than their mainline for hooklinks without really understanding what they are doing?

Perhaps what this does demonstrate is that line manufacturers should be getting their lives in order and stating real breaking strains on their products.

 

[S-Kippy]

Maybe they should Sam but they wont because they want you to buy their brand not someone elses.

Back to the main point....there has to be a bit of thought on the part of the angler too,both in terms of the rigs and lines used. Balance IS important but balance is not just about bs and diameters...it must include performance of the material and why its used too. For example the coated braid that I've been steadfastly avoiding as its a specialised material used for very specific reasons. Your average coated braid has a very high bs....way higher than the mainline normally deployed I suggest BUT its used for a different reason than [say] me floatfishing or fishing a straightforward feeder rig.

Using the example of my own preferred combination I know for a fact that I could use a hi-tec hooklink of the same diameter as my beloved Pro Gold and even though it might be double or more of the stated bs of the PG it would STILL break before the mainline did....and that's not taking into accont the weak points created by knots. The best of the Hi-Tecs are still [IMO] subject to catastrophic failure when their limit is reached whereas a good quality "old school" mainline with a bit of stretch takes a helluva lot to break. I know this sounds like a Pro Gold advert but its taken me a long time to settle on this one and I can honestly say I've never,ever been broken on it which gives me huge confidence. I'm happy then that I can use a higher bs "hi-tec" hooklink with a lower diameter couple with PG as a mainline and remain both "balanced" and safe.

You have a very valid point about inexperienced people not understanding what they are doing or why but there are plenty of experienced anglers out there doing stuff they dont really understand too. I'm afraid it was ever thus and always will be.

 

[cormorant]

well tried the mach 3 out today, lovely rod, a busy method catapulting pellets out all day! good day though but my new pellet waggler float blew apart after an hour and a half so any thoughts on some longer lasting ones, this one today wasnt cheap either,thanks in advance.

 

[S-Kippy]

Glad you liked the Mach 3.I think its a cracking rod and very versatile.

I've had exactly the same problem with pw floats.I dont pw often but every time I have no float has ever lasted the whole session.I thought it was me...clearly not.

 

[sagalout]

Sam, my hook links break before the main line. On another thread about hook links there is a link to a bs table, and the daiwa sensor 8lb breaks at over 10lb so my 9/10lb hook link is ok. Skippy's description "catastrophic failure" sums up the hi tech line perfectly.

Cormorant, I use the drennan pre-loaded wagglers and have found that a spot of super glue is needed to fix the base into the body. I think Mr Drennan has them designed so the body can be removed from the base and a new body (different colour maybe?) can be fitted. Since I started super glueing them I have had no further problems that are not due to casting abilities .

 

[sam vimes]

Sam, my hook links break before the main line. On another thread about hook links there is a link to a bs table, and the daiwa sensor 8lb breaks at over 10lb so my 9/10lb hook link is ok. Skippy's description "catastrophic failure" sums up the hi tech line perfectly.

I understand all that and have all along. What I still don't get is how people ensure that their hooklink breaks before their mainline, especially when they revise upwards for mono breaking strains and downwards for high tech lines. Do people actually test the lines they are using in a non-fishing scenario? If they refuse to believe published breaking strains surely they need to. Assumptions based purely on diameters don't cut it for me. I suspect that they don't always work for others either, judging by the number of posts I see complaining about losing floats and moaning about weak/poor quality mono of various types. My suspicion in the light of this is that, rather than the assumed bad batch theory, there's a fair chance that they are actually using hooklinks of greater breaking strain than the mainline.

Perhaps I'm living in the past in my thinking. It's distinctly possible as the carp fishing way of using 10-15lb mono with 20-30lb braid hooklinks also leaves me cold too and has done for fifteen years and more.