Floats etc

[no-one in particular]

I totally agree markg...
Some of the bigger feathers make very good lift floats if they are reversed. I've used Araldite Rapid to set a small ring into the thicker end and with a bit of whipping that is strong enough. The painted very fine 'thin' end sits very well in the water...

I tend make them a bit rough TC, not a lot of patience and a bit cack handed but have you ever tried leaving a bit of feather on the fine tip and painting it to make a good sight point? I have tried this and it does help for long distance or near if your eyes are bad..

 

[laguna]

Anyone tried the steam method of straightening out quills and stick floats? It's fairly straight (pardon the pun) forward.

Materials required

1 x strong bendy willow branch about 18 inch long x 1/2 inch thick
1 x 24 inch x 1/2 inch strip of muslin cloth or bandage gauge from first aid kit - knotted on each end
Saw or sharp knife
Hob Kettle or pan of boiling water
1 x bent stick float or quill


Here are the steps required.

1. Make a small slit in each end of the willow branch using the saw or sharp knife
2. Wrap the cloth around the quill, covering it's length, over-lapping slightly with each turn
3. Secure knotted ends of the cloth to your bendy piece of willow with the slits cut in each end to form a bow
4. Suspend over a boiling kettle or a pan of water for a few minutes
5. Remove from heat and leave it bowed for 1 hour to keep tension while it cools
6. Remove from the bow and unwrap your newly straightened float.

That's it. Perfectly straight floats.

Note The steam method works on shaping new stick floats and new quills found, as well as old ones, once the varnish and whipping as been removed as part of a restoration effort.

Good luck.

Ps. If anyone wants to see a step by step article (with pictures) let me know and I'll submit it to Cliff.

 

[Tee-Cee]

I, for one would be interested to 'see' this method in picture form.....Should be interesting, Chris.

As I said in my last post I am using a flat iron to straighten my SMALL bird quills, which entails covering the curved section and gently running the iron over the (covered with a cloth) bent section and (again very gently) lifting the end of the float.
After waiting for the (warm NOT hot) bird quill to cool it is somewhat straighter, but a couple of goes gets it as straight as it is ever going to be! (or that is necessary).

I am talking bird quills here, such as crow, pigeon, pheasant and the like...


Large quills, such as those from a Swan/Canada Goose etc. are extremely difficult to straighten (IMHO) as they are, by definition partly roundish (at the top end) running into square/rectanglar (in section) as it runs the thin, bottom end AND BECAUSE OF THE VERY HARD, ALMOST PLASTIC LIKE material ALONG ONE SIDE (KNOWN AS THE SHAFT OR RATCHIS) which runs from where the round section ends down to the tip of the feather, it does not bend easily.

As I said in my last post, when you try to straighten AGAINST this hard side (which is the same on all LARGE quills) it is impossible not to cause a bulge (where it straightens) and an indentation in that same hard side, or ratchis.

This my take on it, and is NOT to say the method outlined by Chris above, will not work, as I obviously haven't tried his method. We all live and learn, as they say!!


NB! Regardless of all of this, any quill with its natural curve can be used as a float as it is, and I have many floats in this format. I just like to try and get them as straight as possible ,cos I'm a fussy bu**er!!

 

[carpinbob]

Still got some of those in my box.

 

[laguna]

Hi TC, the steaming method can work in reverse too, such as what boat builders do when curving planks and such. You might already know this method of bending whereby the planks are steamed for several minutes and then set in clamps. There is some spring back which needs to be considered, so what generally happens is that the planks are over-bent to compensate.
The idea being that heat from the steam penetrates to aid bending. The cloth wrap facilitates a straight line for the floats/quills held under tension and steam by the bow. As you say one side is thick and the other thin but it works out well without any buckle on the thin side.

I have no need to make any of my collection straight atm as, like you, I am happy with a slight natural curve on a quill, but I'll look out for a goose quill and do a step by step in the next weeks. The last time i straightened a quill was years ago but I have done some sticks as recently as 4/5 years ago. It's pretty simple really.

All the best.

 

[eric]

Hi guys I think you're straying a bit off topic. perhaps head to the Float Making thread?

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