How long is a hook length?

[Titus]

Why is the hook link length critical anyway?

The critical length and the one you should be recording is from the float to the hook so if you have to change a hooklength and the new one is longer than you normally use then move the float down a bit to compensate and if it's shorter move the float up.

 

[trotter2]

Yes I agree I am the same, totally confused as to why anyone would need a 3 feet hook length?
Please explain anyone

In some of the swims I fish. You could draw a peg 4 foot deep full of fish, a 3 foot hook length would mean practically all your shot is on the weak link? If you break off you will need to rebuild the whole set up

 

[Mr Cholmondeley-Corker (PaSC)]

Well I use hook lengths up to 5 ft.

 

[nicepix]

I bought a load of Kamazan hook lengths a few years ago, 16's to 22's, barbed and barbless, and there is no standard length. The barbless ones are twice the length of the barbed and even then they vary by a few inches either way. I usually end up cutting the length of the barbless ones down considerably and fish a hook length of around 12" / 30cm normally.

 

[greenie62]

..... I usually end up cutting the length of the barbless ones down considerably and fish a hook length of around 12" / 30cm normally.

Thanks NP,
I think that could well be the solution. The reason I now buy hooks-to-nylon is that my close-up eyesight isn't brilliant even with specs (and after a series of non-elective eye operations) - it's been frustrating to realise that there is no standardisation in the lengths on sale - cutting to length and tying a loop in the end is the sort of thing that could be done easily at home to make my own 'standard' lengths. Interesting to hear the various lengths others go to for their own standard!

 

[nicepix]

I had to buy them after getting a serious eye injury. I couldn't see to tie my own at less than 14's so I bought around 6 packs of each size and type and am still using the smaller sizes. The longer lengths are a pain as they twist too easily so I started forming a loop about half way down and cutting off the top part.

 

[mick b]

Yes I agree I am the same, totally confused as to why anyone would need a 3 feet hook length?
Please explain anyone

In some of the swims I fish. You could draw a peg 4 foot deep full of fish, a 3 foot hook length would mean practically all your shot is on the weak link? If you break off you will need to rebuild the whole set up

As someone who makes all his hooklengths up to 3ft or more I will explain my reasons.

Set-up
My float is on 6lb reel line with float stops below float and each side of Ollivette finished with a #24 swivel - weaker 4lb hooklength to the swivel and the setting/balancing/over shot/s positioned as required.

On shallow swims say 4ft or less, the Ollivette can be directly under the float stem to just off the bottom with the hooklength from 15" to 5ft and every length in-between, all of which will catch.

What IS important, and this governs the exact dimensions of the hooklength and where the shot/s are positioned, is where the fish are and will the bait be presented in a way they will take it.

Nothing is written in tablets of stone, use what catches for you, but always fish with an open mind and be prepared to experiment.



.

 

[Ray Daywalker Clarke]

Nothing is written in tablets of stone, use what catches for you, but always fish with an open mind and be prepared to experiment.
.

!00% spot on, hit the nail smack on the head.

I find that some anglers are just not prepared to change anything at all, and when they have blanked at the end of the day, they can't work out why.

It's not just the hook length, it could be moving a shot or two by a few millimetres either way.

Like many, I have had good days in a swim, next time there, the set up will be totally different, yet the conditions will be the same.

 

[nicepix]

As someone who makes all his hooklengths up to 3ft or more I will explain my reasons.

Set-up
My float is on 6lb reel line with float stops below float and each side of Ollivette finished with a #24 swivel - weaker 4lb hooklength to the swivel and the setting/balancing/over shot/s positioned as required.

On shallow swims say 4ft or less, the Ollivette can be directly under the float stem to just off the bottom with the hooklength from 15" to 5ft and every length in-between, all of which will catch.

What IS important, and this governs the exact dimensions of the hooklength and where the shot/s are positioned, is where the fish are and will the bait be presented in a way they will take it.

Nothing is written in tablets of stone, use what catches for you, but always fish with an open mind and be prepared to experiment.



.

That's still no reason for a 3 foot hook length. What if your swim is less than 3 foot?The float will be below the swivel

 

[trotter2]

Hi Mick
I can understand what you are doing but I do it differently

First of all I use a short hook length ,waterknot or loop to loop your choice.
By using a short hook length I can move my shot anywhere from under the float to bulked up in the bottom 1/3 or even fish the lead line technique .
I do not use a swivel because that would mean I have a fixed weight attached to my rig, I require total flexibility of movement not just in depth but also in presentation. For example I can move a dust shot close to the hook length or move all my shot up the rig for a slow falling natural on the drop presentation and everything in between.

The only time I would contemplate a swivel in the set up is loafer fishing, using bread, meat or wasp grub as bait, bulk weight and dropper shots remain in a fixed position when doing so.

I can move swims and adjust accordingly, depth and presentation with the minimum of fuss

Thanks Mick

 

[Ray Daywalker Clarke]

I have seen guys fishing 5, 6, 7 foot hook lengths, in less than 3 foot of water.

How i hear you ask……….On Rivers, and Carpers use them with zig rigs even longer.

Hook Lengths are not just for float fishing.

 

[nicepix]

Ray, obviously you are correct. But Mickb specifically refers to float fishing.

I think some posters might be getting mixed up between 'hook length' as in distance between hook and ledger or float and 'hook length' as in a pre-tied or home tied length of line with a hook at one end and typically a loop at the other, and kept in a wallet. The latter seems to be what Greenie is referring to.

 

[trotter2]

I suppose the question should be (why use a hook length in the first place??)

IMO The reason why I use one is

1. It allows me to use a lighter hook length than the main line, So if I get snagged and have to pull for a break I get my rig back. And like wise if I get busted by a larger than average fish I get me rig back without loosing all me shot and the float.

2.It also allows me to use a lighter hook length to deceive stream wise fish into taking the bait.

Is there any more reasons why you use a lighter hook length ??

Personally I Still don't see any reason for using a 3 foot hook length when float fishing, Please correct me if I am wrong

 

[greenie62]

I prefer to fish straight through as often as possible when trotting, or anytime really (either four or six pound), I don't like messin' about with hooklengths which are just a weak link and twist far to easy even when a swivel is used to join the two. If the fish are being a bit clever and shying away from my set up and I do have to use a low diameter bottom to get the fish to oblige then I make my own bottoms up. The swim conditions determine how long I make my hooklength.

Years ago I would have been doing exactly the same, Tigger, when I was fishing waters I'd fished for years, knew every bump on the bottom, and what fish/size were in the water. Unfortunately in my absence from the coarse scene, rivers have changed as have the species/populations, lakes too.
When you know what you're likely to get in a swim you can fish with less doubt and not have to hedge bets, chop & change, make much in the way of terminal rig adjustments. Even fishing local commercials for Roach, Cru's and Tench you can attract attention from voracious mobs of large-ish Carp which can wreak havoc on 2-3lb Maxima fished straight-through! So one uses say 6lb reel line with a 2lb bottom - IF you get bust-up by a double then you've minimised loss of tackle and stress to fish (?) - on the other hand you've still got a fair go at catching your target fish!
A very similar situation occurs on rivers whilst roach, dace, chublet fishing when you can be given a similar beating-up by barbel or even spotties! Even on former no-hope rivers like the Irwell and tributaries where there have recently been reports of barbel showing - as well as brownie doubles! You just don't know what you're likely to catch on some waters anymore!
Until I explore these waters a bit more I don't feel confident in fishing reel-line straight through!
Tight Lines!

 

[nicepix]

I suppose the question should be (why use a hook length in the first place??)

IMO The reason why I use one is

1. It allows me to use a lighter hook length than the main line, So if I get snagged and have to pull for a break I get my rig back. And like wise if I get busted by a larger than average fish I get me rig back without loosing all me shot and the float.

2.It also allows me to use a lighter hook length to deceive stream wise fish into taking the bait.

Is there any more reasons why you use a lighter hook length ??

Personally I Still don't see any reason for using a 3 foot hook length when float fishing, Please correct me if I am wrong

Similar to your examples. Plus a short hook length attached loop to loop or using a quick change link means that you can swap and change your hook type, size or line strength without having to re-shot your rig.And, the lighter lines seem to be more affected by wind knots and twist more easily so the shorter the length within reason, the better IMO.

 

[mick b]

An interesting point here is the strength of the connection between the hooklength and the running line.

A loop knot, or those I have tied myself and tested, wasn't as strong as a water knot, uni2uni, or uni2swivel/ring with my loop knots failing at approx 60% of line test where as a uni knot broke at 80% or more.

In a fishing situation my 4lb hooklenghth (Trilene Clear Feeder) nearly always breaks at the spade end knot or just above, it never breaks at the uni2swivel.

Anyone wish to share their experiences?

.

 

[nicepix]

An interesting point here is the strength of the connection between the hooklength and the running line.

A loop knot, or those I have tied myself and tested, wasn't as strong as a water knot, uni2uni, or uni2swivel/ring with my loop knots failing at approx 60% of line test where as a uni knot broke at 80% or more.

In a fishing situation my 4lb hooklenghth (Trilene Clear Feeder) nearly always breaks at the spade end knot or just above, it never breaks at the uni2swivel.

Anyone wish to share their experiences?

.

Unless you have also measured the % at which your line breaks at the hook there is little point discussing the merits of which method of attachment is better. I cannot remember a hook link breaking at the loop knot. It usually goes at the hook or just above where the line has been weakened during the tying process.

 

[rubio]

I rarely use pretied hooks but when I do I dispose of the loop and use either water knot(even with hook attached) or uni knots butting up together. I'd rather a knot fail was my own fault I guess.

 

[tigger]

Years ago I would have been doing exactly the same, Tigger, when I was fishing waters I'd fished for years, knew every bump on the bottom, and what fish/size were in the water. Unfortunately in my absence from the coarse scene, rivers have changed as have the species/populations, lakes too.
When you know what you're likely to get in a swim you can fish with less doubt and not have to hedge bets, chop & change, make much in the way of terminal rig adjustments. Even fishing local commercials for Roach, Cru's and Tench you can attract attention from voracious mobs of large-ish Carp which can wreak havoc on 2-3lb Maxima fished straight-through! So one uses say 6lb reel line with a 2lb bottom - IF you get bust-up by a double then you've minimised loss of tackle and stress to fish (?) - on the other hand you've still got a fair go at catching your target fish!
A very similar situation occurs on rivers whilst roach, dace, chublet fishing when you can be given a similar beating-up by barbel or even spotties! Even on former no-hope rivers like the Irwell and tributaries where there have recently been reports of barbel showing - as well as brownie doubles! You just don't know what you're likely to catch on some waters anymore!
Until I explore these waters a bit more I don't feel confident in fishing reel-line straight through!
Tight Lines!

I understand what your saying greenie but even when visiting a new water I still use the same tactics and it's not failed me yet (hope i've not just jinxed myself mg.
Funny enough 4lb or 6lb line fished through to the hook very rarely puts the fish off my bait on running or still water. When it does then it's simple to add a low diameter bottom to try and get a result. The beauty of 6lb straight through is if you do hook up with a branch or similar then a controled pull will usually bend the hook out and it will come free. If not it usually breaks around the shot...very rarely have I had it break at the hook as most other people seem to find.
If using a low diameter bottom I never go much lower in B/S than my mainline...for example 6lb mainline with a 4 to 6lb hooklength. The low diameter bottom will always snap well before a mainline of the same B/S.

Obviously your best to fish in a way that makes you feel comfortable so your best off figuring out your own set up.