Pole fishing for beginners.

MRWELL

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I can not remember if i put this on here a few years ago now or not and having looked i can not find anything so i take that has a (no) if i have already,i apologize for repeating it,i don't know if there is a limit on how long a post can be so i will have to continue at some point but i hope it will not put you off reading this.

When i first started pole fishing a long time ago now,i was reliant on my friends to tell me the basics as the information was very thin on the ground back then,the lack of fishing sites on the early net was also a big draw back but those that was on only put on information that was very technical and for a beginner that was of no use at all,now a few years on down the line there is loads of information to be found but again,the tech talk is there to be seen.

To a seasoned pole angler,this kind of talk is standard and easy to understand but to a beginner is it so easy i wonder,well the answer is no,like everything in life we have to learn from scratch,so with that in mind i set about putting together a article that is aimed at the beginner in pole fishing and with little of the tech talk involved so it makes it easy not just to follow but to understand,this is what i came up with,it is not spot on the mark stuff but more a guide,i am not even going to think about the many different makes of things that are out there these days but instead,i am keeping it simple,easy to follow and for the out and out beginner it should point them in the right direction but in no way am i saying it is a ''must do'' thing,just a guide,so with all that said let's begin shall we.

Where better to start than with the pole it's self,there are hundreds of different makes out there and everyone is better than the rest,well thats what they say,to a beginner a Pole can be a very expensive item to invest in and remember you will never get your money back if you decide to sell,so to get round that problem go cheap,plenty of second hand poles out there these days but lets take it a step further and that means the length,anyone who has used a pole will tell you that at 16 plus meters a pole is not easy to use and takes it toll on you,thats why you see many only using the pole at full length for short times,mainly the length of pole is around 13 meters that is used the most,i would even suggest coming down to 11 meters for the beginner.

Poles come in two basic forms from match to margin,now match poles are the expensive ones and can be a few thousand pounds in cost but margin poles are much less in value,this is because they are shorter,many only 8/9 meters in length,i have one that is 11 meters,the obvious disadvantage you have is that length but as a beginner you should not even think about that at the early stages,the most important part is getting to know how a pole works best,when to use it at what lengths,keeping it steady and so on and all this takes time to learn right,another disadvantage is the weight of the pole,match poles are lighter than margin poles,i will put a guide on that shows that later,the reason being that match poles are the top end of the range,lighter carbon and so on,margin poles are meant for close in fishing and that means snags,you need strength for that and margin poles give you just that but with it comes extra weight and even a few ounces takes it toll over a long session.

Continued........

---------- Post added at 16:05 ---------- Previous post was at 15:06 ----------

So we have a idea of what pole to look for,now we need to top kits,what?to a beginner they will say that but really the top kits are the sections of pole that the elastic runs through,that could be two or three sections,these are called power top two or match top three kits.

Match top three are for the lighter elastics but power top two is for the heavy stuff,thicker elastic means more cut back on the top kit,that in turn means you are only using two sections of pole to cater for this as the first section is for very thin,light elastics,it is a little more technical than that but like i have said,i don't want to talk tech talk.

So i hope you can follow up to this point,now just a little tip here,make sure your pole can handle the elastics you might be using,with the light stuff there is no problems but as you get to size 18 plus then you must be sure your pole can take that,the pole will take any elastic but it comes rated,this means the size of elastic at it's maximum for safety reasons,there is only so much pressure you can put on a pole joint/sections before it breaks,the elastic gives the pressure so many makers of poles these days put on a rating,if not find out about it,if it states 18 then nothing more than a 18 elastic should be used,this is to stop damage to the pole.

Well we now can go on to elastics,seeing i have been going on about them,lets look at this like a car,the pole is the body work but the elastic is the engine,it give the power you need to handle what you catch and elastics have come a long way over the years,mainly they come in Solid,hydro,latex,duel core,hollow, yes it is a bit off putting and most is all personal preferences as to what you use,i would always say solid for beginners,simply for cost and the less stretch you get,solid elastic will stretch around five times it's own length,the others up to ten times,this in turn means more contact and control on the fish but it also has it's draw backs with the chance of bumping fish off the hook,this happens when fish go on the run and the elastic takes hold or bottoms out (hit's the stretch limit) this in turn pulls on the hook,with solid this happens much quicker so the chances are much higher of this happening,just one of many good and bad points i am afraid when it comes to elastics.

So we are getting near to having you pole sorted out,just a few bits you need to add before you can use it,the elastics are attached to holders,these are called bungs,there are different ones on the market and again it is all personal preference as to what you use but again being a beginner i would go with the winder bung,easy to use and fit,at this point it would be best to get someone who has elasticated poles before to do it for you,just watch and learn,it is easy believe me,once he elastic is on the bung it need to be at the right tension,before you can do that you need to attach a stonfo connector,this is what your rigs will attach on,a simple bit of plastic with a sleeve on,under that there is a hook attachment and a hole,the elastic fits in the hole and tied down,the sleeve goes over that,it will also go over the hook attachment and hold your rig in place,just pull back to remove afterwards but remember they do come in different sizes for the elastics you are using so get advice beforehand,just one more thing now,that is a bush,this is fitted on the tip of you kit before you put the stonfo on or set the elastic,this comes in two types,internal and external,many like internal because it prevents your rig from getting stuck round it as can happen with external ones,internal will take more room up in the tip i might add but external will give you maximum room,your choice.

Many would say what about a ''crows foot'' or ''Dacron'' connectors,well would a beginner know how to use these,these things can be used later on when they become more competent in pole fishing.

This is just the start of learning the basics in pole fishing and i have only covered the basics so far,i will leave you to digest what little i have written on this before i carry on and there is a lot more to put down yet,i have no idea how this will be taken on here and i await to see if it is worth continuing,if anyone feels i should carry on then i will but it is time consuming so i would like to know before i carry on.

Many thanks for reading and remember it is for the beginner in pole fishing.
Tight lines.
 

MRWELL

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Lines and Hooks.

This is another area that will be more of a personal preference than anything else,with that in mind,lets forget makes and concentrate on what is right for pole fishing..

Pole fishing is a more refined way of fishing and with that comes more refined tackle,poles are not meant to be used with strong lines and large hooks unlike Rods are/can be used,you will not find many using lines of more than six pound break and even then it is the main line not hook length that is that weight,Hooks are the same thing with the largest being around size ten with bread flake bait,everything is small and more delicate in pole fishing for a more precise sport and presentation of course there are exceptions but in the main thats how it is.

Pole floats come in different shapes,that being in the body and i will come to that in a moment but first,the line,when some talk about lines they give you advice that is more to a match mans liking by this i mean in diameter rather than break strain,in real terms they are the same thing but to a novice it can be very confusing,so i decided to put together a rough guide that shows both diameters and break strain.

DIAMETERS..............BREAK STRAIN
0.06 mm.....................12oz
0.07........................1lb 2oz
0.08........................1lb 12oz
0.09........................2lb
0.10........................2lb 6oz
0.11........................2lb 14oz
0.12........................3lb 4oz
0.14........................4lb 12oz
0.16........................5lb 10oz
0.18........................6lb 8oz
0.20........................7lb 12oz
0.22........................9lb
0.24........................10lb 4oz
0.26........................11lb 6oz

This chart is a guide only and some makes will differ from this but in the main it is not far away,now when someone says line diameters you will know the break strain better,make a note of the table and keep it with you if you like,it might prove invaluable at some point.

FLOATS.

Before we go into this area it is best to say there are thousands of them on the markets today by that many different makers from the big top name firms to the more personalized guys who make to order,that it makes picking your floats mind bending at times,with this in mind i will say that there are only six basic body shapes to have,although there are a few more than that,these shapes are Body up,Body down,Pear,Pencil,Diamond and Dibber.

The words describe the shape of the body of the float this picture might help you to understand better.
Picture058-1.jpg


You can see the difference in the body shapes,now what are they best used for is the next step,well lets start with Pear, number one in the picture,this float is best used for very sensitive bites,it carries little weight and is ideal for shy bites.
Going in order on the picture,next is Body up,this float is very buoyant and best used in windy conditions,the weight is used on the last third of your line to give balance.
Body down,these are best used for deep waters but the way they act are the same as body up.
Ball/Round body,these floats carry lots of weight and are ideal for holding position.
Pencil floats,these are the best in windy conditions,very strong and many use these for snag fishing but they are of no real use if looking for sensitive bites or shallow waters.
Dibber floats,not very good in windy conditions but ideal for margin fishing,carries a good weight as well.

Those are the six types in the picture and a rough use of the body shapes,it could be a lot more technical but i don't want it to be that way,just easy to follow guides,i must stress these shapes are mainly still water and not River or canals,these need a little twist in how to fish them with a pole in the right way.

WEIGHTS.

This is a area that really gets to some people when they see on the floats body 0.5g,what the hell is that,to a beginner it means nothing and the obvious questions follow.
A seasoned or more knowledgeable angler will know it means how much weight that float will take to set (cock) it right,great now what weights,there are three that are used mainly and they all weigh more or less than the other,pole floats are in Styls grams not shot and when you take the third weight that used,that being Stotz,you can see it is easy to get this wrong,well i have once more put a rough guide to point you in the right direction,the three weight i have mentioned vary very little but it makes a lot of difference.

STYLS
Number.............weight in grammes
12...................0.064
11...................0.048
10...................0.038
9.....................0.025
8.....................0.017
7.....................0.010

SHOTS

SSG..........1.6
AAA..........0.80
BB............0.40
1.............0.24
4.............0.17
6.............0.10

STOTZ

8............0.063
9............0.049
10..........0.034
11..........0.026
12..........0.020
13..........0.012

Now you can shot your floats a little better by using this guide,again it is only a rough reference but it is not far off the mark,there are other ways like using Tungsten putty and things like that but these are not weights that can be put into a guide because it is up to you how much/little you use.

Over all i have kept this so it can be easy to follow and i hope it help those who are starting out into pole fishing to understand things a little better,it is not rocket science after all but it is easy to get wrong and even the slightest of mistakes can be costly or even worse,that fish of a life time getting away,practice makes perfect and you will need to get to know that pole before you reap the rewards of it;)

Tight lines and happy pole fishing guys.

Stan.
 

robertroach

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The jury is out with pole fishing as far as I am concerned. I bought an 8 metre "margin" pole a couple of years ago and I have used it quite a bit and it has been effective for me. I only want it for roach/rudd fishing, not carp and it has a yellow elastic. A big carp took it one time and I think I was about half an hour bringing it in!

The main problem with it is that it feels heavy to use. Is there such a thing as a lightweight 9metre pole that doesn't cost an arm and a leg - maybe £100? I am not going to use it enough to justify buying a full length expensive pole.
 

MRWELL

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Hi Rob.
Poles can be heavy and margin poles are the ones mainly,you have a margin pole of 8 meters so it will be heavy,nothing much can be done about that,second hand poles are the way to go if you are on a budget,you can pick up a good one these days for £100 but your taking pot luck with the quality of it,i have a assassin 11 meter pole and that came with three top kits,it cost just over what you want but not much more,i find it fine to hold and not too heavy,the plus factor is,it can handle anything,i have landed carp of 20 lb on it but i don't target carp all the time,a good days Roach fishing is a good days fishing and this pole does it well.
Leeda assassin costs now £149 (rrp £199),so a little more than your budget but worth it i think,there could be better out there but like i say it is personal preferences really...you could look at the Maver blue vega,it is only 976gr in weight and that is 11 meters so it is light but will take elastic of 20+ rateing and it is under your budget,one to look at i think ;)
 

robertroach

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Thanks for this advice, and such an interesting thread. I'm going to check out the Leeda assasin.
ATB
 

rubio

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Hope you will continue to develop this advice.
I have a couple of poles that i rarely use these days cos in general I prefer to rove around on the rivers. That said I often take along a 6m Alborella whip. It's a tele/take apart that I got for a tenner. It came with flick tip and an elasticated top too. I had great fun using it for Crucians up to 2lbs this summer and occasionally got lucky when a bigger common or tench picked up my hook. It often comes along when I'm piking to fill in slow sessions with a bit of fun and provide bait. It is easy to use because it's light. Like you say I often have trouble handling a pole at more than 8m let alone 16m!
I could definitely benefit from some guidance on setting up my seat and tackle. Might have to get up in the loft for those poles,dust them off and waggle 'em about again.
 

MRWELL

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Hi Rubio.
Yes whips can be great fun and was at one time the most used on Canals,flick tips or elasticated they offer you some good sport at little cost,the telescopic kind of whips are good for roving around as well because they just slip into each section quickly,quick to set up and easy to use,ideal for a few Roach in the margin areas on the Rivers.

You have hit on a good point when you say,advice on seating and tackle set up,again it is personal preference here as some will like plenty of room wile others will like things very close by but lets start with seating,obviously you will be using a seat box for pole fishing as a chair is not a good thing to use and gets in the way although i have seen some using chairs.

Seat box,your choice of course,but it should be level and firm,mud feet are important on the legs,some have/use a foot plate with what is called a spray/bump bar on the front,this is ideal if you want to fish out in front of you and gives you both hands to rest has the but end of the pole is held in place by a strap that is on most seat box seats,there are loads of attachments that can be used on a seat box but not all are must haves by this i mean,they are things that help but you can do without.

Firstly,bait trays or side trays as some call them,these are in my opinion a must have item because they keep everything in easy reach and tidy,no need to go looking for anything with these as it should be on those trays to start with,remember these trays should be on the side of the seat box that you are not going to be shipping the pole back on for the reason,they will be in the way so best have all you bait and stuff on the unused side of the box,on what i call the pole side of the box you can have pole hooks or attachments,these can be useful when you need to have both hands needed for something else,they will hold the pole level and safe wile you can do what you want to do but still keep a eye on that float,never get up off your seat box when doing this as it is most likely to up turn the box.

A lot depends on if your right or left handed,in my case being right handed i have my pole on my left side,this is so my right hand is at the front of the pole at most of the times,my left hand acts as a balance or just to hold the pole straight,i only use my left hand to bring the fish in to the landing net on my top kits so my right hand lands the fish,obviously it should be the other way round if left handed,all pole rollers should be on the pole side of the box,set at the right heights and distance apart,now there is some debate on just how this should be done and you will get different answers to these questions,for me,the back roller should be a little lower than the front one and it should be ''V'' shaped to stop any lateral movements but some will argue this point,it really is what you feel comfortable with at the end of the day,i seldom use rollers as i don't match fish but i do use roosts,what are roosts?..they are foam or rubber ''U'' shaped holders that hold your pole sections off the ground when apart,these to me are a must have item,some come on tripods but some will just screw on to bank stick,to have your pole sections on the floor is asking for trouble,not only can you step on a section but dirt can also get into the pole and cause it to stick together and thats the last thing you want to happen,roosts are cheap and do a great job in avoiding these kind of things.

Your positioning on your seat box in very important,as you might already know poles can be heavy things to hold all day long and they take there toll on your arms but more so your back,this is were a lot of pole users get it wrong,sit slightly sideways on to the front of your seat box,your pole should now rest on your lap so your legs take a lot of the weight,your arms should only be steadying the pole at this point,sit has you would in your chair at home with a straight back,this will stop most of the back aches you get,if you suffer from back problems then i would strongly advise you not to use a pole.

There is not much else to say on the pole and your positioning but tackle wise,how long is a piece of string these days? you will need what you feel you need but the basics are,pole rig winders,these are very important and save you so much time making new rigs on the banks,make the rigs in your own time and way,wrap them on to the winder and mark it so you know the length,hook size job done,it is that simple and you can have hundreds already in your seat box made up for use and remember having three or four the same is not a waste of time,if you get snapped you have another to fall back on,so when you see some pole anglers with there box lid open don't be surprised to see loads of pole rigs set up on winders,it is for the reasons i have given.

Landing nets is another thing some get wrong,with pole fishing it is wise to have a long handle to your landing net,i have a telescopic handle for my net and is around 3 meters in length or so,remember your are using a pole not rod,this means you do not have the control to bring the fish right to the net like you do with a rod and reel,there is elastic that will stretch and a good fish will take a wile to land with a pole,as already been said on this thread,it can take ages because of the elastic and it's stretch so with that in mind it pays to have that extra length on the landing net handle but be careful,with that comes a lack of strength on the handle so don't try and lift it in the air but keep it in the water and bring it in that way,never try holding it in the air at full length,the joints are very thin and break if not used right,everything else is what you would take mainly with your rod and reel.

In a nut shell it is not hard to use a pole right but easy to use it wrong,always use the right gear/tackle for pole fishing and you will always reap the rewards,costs are what you can afford not what Joe Soap can and using cheap poles and tackle is nothing to be ashamed about,i use them all the time and still catch plenty,who cares about those thousand pound poles,unless your into match fishing they are not worth it but if you can afford one then great go for it.

Stan.
 

MRWELL

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HI Pete.
About halfway down my reply to Rubio,you will see i mention pole rollers and how there is some debate on how to use them,i also state that in my opinion the back roller should be slightly lower than the front one and be ''V'' shaped,this is were the debate comes into play because some will argue the front needs to be lower,it is down to what suits you best.

I have not gone into detail on positions of rollers because again many can not use rollers in the way they should because of lack of room,the best way if you can use rollers is to make sure the unshipped pole is easy to move off the front and back roller,by this i mean there should not be any bumping of the pole be it putting it on the rollers or taking it off,it should run smooth on the rollers,if it bumps coming off the back roller then that roller is to far away and needs to be moved forward,if the pole kicks in the air a little when put on the rollers then the back roller needs to be moved backwards or front roller forwards,it is all down to getting the balance right before you start to fish but like i say sometimes there is not enough room to use rollers in the right way so you have to improvise on this,this is why i did not go into detail so much,by keeping things simple to follow it should make it easy to understand better for the beginners but the positioning of the rollers is very important if you can use them in the right way.

Stan.
 

MRWELL

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PULLA BUNGS.

It is about time i put a bit more information on this thread of mine aimed at pole fishing for the beginners.

These days you might here people talking about two kinds of ways to control fish better rather than letting the elastic run out,one way is called a Pulla Bung,now all your elastics are fitted to bungs in your pole,thats standard but these days we have a different kind of bung called pullas,no need to be a rocket scientist to work out what that means,you pull the bung out when you catch a fish,simple or is it,there is a little bit more to it than that although thats the basic reason,one reason pulla bungs are used is for the extra control it gives you over the fish.
When you hook into a fish the elastic will stretch out,if your using a light elastic or hollow then the stretch can and will be a lot,so you find it harder to land even the smaller stuff because of the extra elastic that has been pulled out,now pulla bungs allows you to pull the elastic so you have less stretch or extra elastic out,that in turn gives you better control over your catch.
The pulla bung is used the same as a standard bung but there is about a inch of stem showing from the bottom of your top kits,this is what you catch hold of and pull,this in turn will pull the elastic out meaning you have less elastic to worry about when playing the fish in,one draw back using this method is you can only use it by breaking down your pole to you top kits,ok thats the way i know but some would like to keep a extra section of pole on,i don't but i have seen some doing this so a pulla bung would be of little use to them but there is another one that would be.

SIDE PULLAS.

These are for the same purpose of use but instead of it being a bung it is a pulla that comes out the side on the section of pole,a hole is made to allow the fittings to be put in place,your elastic then runs on that,you just catch hold of the bit that sticks out of the side and pull,no need to break the pole down to grab the bung this way,one thing to remember though when using these is you need to strengthen your cut section to take the side pulla because you will be drilling a hole through the carbon,this in turn will weaken that point so it needs to be whats called wrapped or strengthened up,some use a mini extension that the pulla is attatched to,of course it is a bit more technical but i have just given you a rough idea of what these are so if you hear anyone talking about these you will at least now know what they are talking about and the reason they are used;)
 
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