Telescopic Landing net handle from China

Ray Roberts

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As it seems that there isn’t an available adaptor, I think the simplest and most elegant solution would be to drill out the 8mm hole to the correct tapping size and rethread that to 3/8 BSF. That’s what I would do anyway.


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Wakou

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Thank you all for these responses!
A 'progress' update:
My tiny room is now cluttered with old banksticks, and my rather smelly (unwashed) landing net heads, and handles, for 'research'
Possibly interestingly, the head of the new handle is dimpled, as if to take some kind of quick-release head.
1613386669041.png
But of course, I could not go ahead and buy such an item without knowing its precise dims. (good money after bad!)

@Ray Roberts
Thank you for the suggestion. I am not 100% that there is sufficient 'meat' there to do this? Also, I do not have the tools!
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RMNDIL

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Just because it's got an 8mm thread doesn't make it rubbish - just wrong size for UK use. The Chinese domestic market uses different things to us in the west. And there are a lot more of them than us.
 

mikench

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It's got to be worth an email to the seller about the issue and see if he can knock you up an adaptor or supply a suitable net. He might like a glowing testimonial.
 

Wakou

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@RMNDIL
I am not suggesting that there is anything wrong with M8 threads etc. However the ad suggests that this is a "universal" fitting which "fits most nets on the market". Which is plainly untrue! 3/8" BSF has been the de-facto standard since FOREVER!
For instance if a company started selling bicycle pedals, but unilaterally decided that they should have a metric thread, and would therefore NOT fit any bicycle?
and ps. I ordered, at the same time, some cheapo rod-rests, and a bite alarm. Threads? 3/8" BSF. So it is not as if that threading is unavailable to manufacturers in China!
 
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pnich

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@RMNDIL
I am not suggesting that there is anything wrong with M8 threads etc. However the ad suggests that this is a "universal" fitting which "fits most nets on the market". Which is plainly untrue! 3/8" BSF has been the de-facto standard since FOREVER!
For instance if a company started selling bicycle pedals, but unilaterally decided that they should have a metric thread, and would therefore NOT fit any bicycle?
and ps. I ordered, at the same time, some cheapo rod-rests, and a bite alarm. Threads? 3/8" BSF. So it is not as if that threading is unavailable to manufacturers in China!
It does state in the advert that the interface is M8. It does look as if there is enough material on the end for it to be drilled and tapped to 3/8 BSF.
 

pnich

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@RMNDIL
I am not suggesting that there is anything wrong with M8 threads etc. However the ad suggests that this is a "universal" fitting which "fits most nets on the market". Which is plainly untrue! 3/8" BSF has been the de-facto standard since FOREVER!
For instance if a company started selling bicycle pedals, but unilaterally decided that they should have a metric thread, and would therefore NOT fit any bicycle?
and ps. I ordered, at the same time, some cheapo rod-rests, and a bite alarm. Threads? 3/8" BSF. So it is not as if that threading is unavailable to manufacturers in China!
You can buy a 3/8" BSF tap from Tracy Tools for £2.00 plus postage. If you get the tapered tap you would probably not need to drill out the adaptor as long as it's got a hole right through. The adaptor is probably made from brass so should be easy to rethread with a new tap.
 

Notts Michael.

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I would go with the drill out the M8 thread using an 8.3mm drill, and re tap the BSF thread option if doing it for myself.
making an M8 to 3/8'' BSF adaptor is a lot more trouble TBH, Unless you really needed to use the existing M8 hole at some point in the future.
I'll gladly do the re-tap for you if you want, can you post just the end section if the sections can be seperated?
 

Wakou

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Thank you all! Especially @Notts Michael. @markcw @pnich @Ray Roberts
I am now, yet again, on the horns of a dilemma!
I do not have a a post-drill or lathe. It has been fully forty years since I even saw one, or cut a thread by hand. So, I am severely lacking in confidence.
The recommendation for Tracy Tools is a great one, and they are now firmly in my favourites list.
so is it possible that all I would need is one of these:
1613557925934.pngAnd one of these:
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And one of these:
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Or is there more to it than that?

I do not know what the difference is btw the various sorts of tap!
1613557834417.png
 
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Wakou

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In the old days....
I live in an 'engineering' sort of town. And although I was not a engineer myself, I worked in a factory. If I wanted any of this sort of thing done, for the price of a pint, one of the guys at the 'machine-shop' would happily run-off a hundred! And many of my neighbours had lathes etc at home.
Also, at work there was a 'scrap-store'... Harry behind the counter was a genial soul.
Brass? Tungsten? Stainless? Bronze? Copper?
Great lumps of it .. Usually 2p
Nuts and bolts etc? A sack you could hardly lift to the car. 2p
Same would go for electronics supplies. Copper-clad, transistors etc, more than you could use in a hundred lifetimes. 2p
I was on the electronics side. If you wanted a piece of kit for home use, you would bribe a test-technician to scrap it. And the following day, go over to Harry's shed. Where the Fluke meter (retail value £240.00-ish) oscilloscope (£1,000-ish?) or etc, would be waiting for you. 4p
Also one time, an audit was done on stocks. A huge, solid-silver, barely liftable ingot was found to be missing. Investigations were launched. The police were involved. People's homes were raided and searched, nothing was found. Until, some months later, the precious lump was discovered. One of the workshops was prone to flood. The ingot, covered in muck, was being used as a doorstop.
Another time, one of my colleagues in the plating shop decided he would, bit-by-bit, gold-plate his entire bicycle. All was going well until he put his bicycle clips through the tanks. The sprung-steel somehow contaminated the huge gold-plate tanks, and they had to be drained and decontaminated.
Sadly, Marconi's are no longer in business here.
I wonder why!
 

Ray Roberts

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I’d be open to correction, but what I would do is keep it as cheap as possible.

I would use a cheap drill-bit (you are drilling brass). I wouldn’t bother about a pillar drill, it would be a nightmare to clamp up anyway. Drill the hole out to 8.3mm, if you have a workmate use that to clamp it. If not get a couple of bits of scrap wood, cut a “Vee” shaped notch in each, screw them together either side of the fitting. Then jam it against a fence post or similar. It should drill very easily as you already have a pilot hole. I would then use the cheapest taper tap to tap the thread. Rather than going to the expense of buying a tap holder, you can hold the tap in a pair of mole/vice grips or use a spanner or an adjustable spanner at a pinch.

Remember to go no more than a half turn clockwise then back a quarter turn. You can cut it dry but I would use a lubricant of some kind, paraffin is best or turps, at a pinch wd40 or oil. You will need to run the tap until it’s almost out of the other end as it is a taper tap and if the thread isn’t deep enough it will bind.

Sounds a bit of a palaver but I could do it in less time than it took me to write this, lol.


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markcw

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Looking at the threaded end, it looks like a through hole, if so there will be no danger of the tap bottoming out,
If you have a vice, get a nut with the thread slightly narrower than the square section on the tap. Place tap width way in vice so ends are on each jaw, leave gap for the nut, place nut on square end, close vice tight so nut compresses onto tap.
Now you can use a socket and ratchet to operate the tap.
 

mikench

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I doubt i would attempt any of the well intentioned suggestions, not because they are wrong , but simply that I would be throwing good money after bad and would probably make a horlicks of it. I would either;
a. Write to the seller
B. Buy a chinese net or bin the lot.
C. Post the whole thing to Nottsmichael to see what he can do if he is willing.

Pick the simplest and cheapest. Sometimes you just have to accept you have dropped one and move on.
 

Ray Roberts

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Looking at the threaded end, it looks like a through hole, if so there will be no danger of the tap bottoming out,
If you have a vice, get a nut with the thread slightly narrower than the square section on the tap. Place tap width way in vice so ends are on each jaw, leave gap for the nut, place nut on square end, close vice tight so nut compresses onto tap.
Now you can use a socket and ratchet to operate the tap.

I didn’t mean the tap bottoming out but the thread on the net if the thread isn’t deep enough.


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Wakou

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Once again, thanks to you all, for the advice and inspiration! :cool:
Some might think that @markcw and @mikench counsel a little “eeyore-ish”, but I disagree, it is excellent advice!
However! I have gone ahead and ordered a tap, and an 8.3mm drill from the wonderful “Tracy Tools”.
My reasoning went like this:
1) I am hesitant to burden a stranger with my silly little projects, even though he so kindly offered. Thanks again, @Notts Michael. !
2) It is impossible to drop the end-section out and pass it down through the other sections without cutting off the end-ferrule. (Imagine a telescopic rod with eyes...)
3) Even if 2) were possible, the ridiculous prices for postage in the UK. Via ParcelForce it would be £11.00 each way, plus a tenner for Notts’ trouble. We are in the territory of buying a whole brand new landing-net from a local tackle shop.
4) If I make a complete nawls-up of the operation, I can THEN cut off the end and possibly replace it with the end of an old bankstick.
5) I like a challenge/project
6) It really is a very nice piece of kit, apart from this pesky little problem.
 

dorsetsteve

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The bore of the hole your drilling out will ensure the bit chases the thread, pretty much, as long as you don’t go trying to drill it out in some hamfisted way you can’t really go wrong. If you were local I’d do it for you, take about 20 minutes with a cup of tea.
 
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