Commercial Fisheries Part 13 – The Method, Part 1 of 3THIS IS THE first in a trilogy of articles on The Method. This week Jeff Woodhouse describes the basics in detail, next week I’ll reveal what I learnt from watching Stu Dexter at Clattercote, and finally I’ve lined up an article by Dave Gilling on the carper’s approach to The method – Mark Wintle
The Method Feeder This is a style of fishing that has caught on in the last 10 years or so. It involves casting out a frame which is covered in a quite sticky groundbait and in which the baited hook is buried. The fish, typically carp, attack the groundbait until the hookbait is exposed, and they grab that, turn, bolt and hook themselves such is the ferociousness of their feeding frenzy. Even specialist carp anglers fishing for 20 and 30 pound monsters use the Method feeder at times, but since this series is about smaller ‘commercial’ carp, we’ll stick with that style. Tackle The type of feeder rod you require needn’t be long, anything from 9′ to 14′, but it must be strong since you will be casting quite a weight and fighting strong fish. Almost any feeder rod name with ‘carp’ in it will probably do and some have a small section you can add to lengthen it, an example being the Shimano BeastMaster 9′ – 11′ Carp Feeder.
Lines must be fairly strong, 6lb minimum I would suggest, but if you are going to use braid then you can even think about 20lb breaking strains as an option. This is because braid is much finer (20lb being the same diameter as 6lb nylon in some cases) than monofilament nylon line, but its knot strength isn’t as good and neither is its abrasion resistance. So, if you are using braid be sure that your swim or lake has no hidden sharp rocks or branches. Most ‘commercial’ waters, though, have been cut out of the ground so sharp objects are unlikely – but ask first! Choose a reel to match the rod, no need to go heavy on it, but make certain that the drag is set correctly. If you do fish with braid, set it to the same as if you were fishing with nylon, ie, with 20lb braid set the drag to 6lb nylon maximum. The only other item you might want to invest in is a good sliding rod rest head that allows the rod to travel horizontally when you get a bite. This will give you a vital second or so to just pull into the fish, for there is no need to strike hard. End tackle The type of method feeder frame you choose might be limited to what your tackle shop can offer. Shown are three types, from left to right, the Fox frame feeder, the Korum through frame feeder, and the Korum frame feeder with elastic tag. Despite the quality of manufacture I don’t like the Fox one in that particular picture because the weight is centrally balanced and you don’t know which side it’s landed on. If it lands upside down your bait will be underneath and will be the last item the fish see. You could be missing fish or wasting valuable time at least.
Because of that, I prefer the Fox In-line Flat-Bed Feeders and the Korum feeders that are spoon-shaped and the weight always puts them right-way up. One style is where you pass you main line straight through the feeder and tie it to a swivel on the other end of which is your hook length. If your mainline breaks, the feeder will easily slide off once a fish gets the swivel out of the little hole in the feeder, which isn’t difficult with the correct sized swivel. The other type comes with a piece of strong pole elastic that is almost impossible to break and the hook length is attached to the small ring on the end of this, the mainline being tied to the frame itself. If the main line did break you would have a problem in that the fish would be tethered, some fisheries would ban this as a ‘tether rig’. However, if you fish with braid this rig can help because you’d be highly unlikely to break 15-20lb braid and the elastic acts as a very nice buffer.
Only you can decide which type of frame suits you. If you don’t like the idea of the elasticated frame then simply don’t use it, try the other. However, those that do use it have expressed complete confidence in it provided it is used correctly with the appropriate line and hooklink. The hooklinks are short for one very good reason, you don’t want the fish moving far before it feels the weight of the feeder and bolts off. This is what hooks the fish; your strike is merely to set the hook through to the bend so a soft pull is all that is required. The hook length is therefore anything between 2″ and 6″ depending on the size of the feeder frame you are using and the material (line) should be quite stiff, but not thick and strong.
This hook length must still be the weakest link in the chain so don’t go buying 25lb Amnesia line. Fluorocarbon is a good material and much of that is quite stiff for its given diameter, but do be careful with the knots you choose to tie. Fluorocarbon doesn’t like strangulation knots like the grinner (sometimes called the ‘uni’ knot) so use Palomar or blood knots and for swivels, simple loop knots like the figure of eight knot. The Method Groundbait Finally, the groundbait, a good sticky mix is required in two layers. The first layer goes around the frame and is pressed on really tightly. When you are happy with that place the baited hook on the topside of the groundbaited frame (why Korum’s and Fox Flat-Beds are so good) and proceed to form another layer of groundbait around the first layer and hookbait, only this time don’t press it as hard. It must be reasonably loose so the fish can disturb it easily to find the hookbait although not too loose that it won’t stay on throughout the cast.
Whilst you are learning it will be better to buy proprietary bags of feeder groundbait and mix with a little bread crumb if you want to save some money. Don’t skimp on this, though; buy a quality make and good luck! Next week – Tricks and Tips learnt by watching top match angler Stu Dexter fish The Method at Clattercote, by Mark Wintle |
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